• cordoba

TABERNA DE SAN MIGUEL O “CASA EL PISTO”

Plaza de San Miguel 1 TLF 957 47 83 28/ 470166

DUEÑO RAFAEL 606 66 85 56

This tavern, founded in 1880, is one of the oldest in the city and has always been linked to the world of bullfighting. Bullfighters, intellectuals and artists such as Manolete and Julio Romero de Torres have passed through here and one of the latter’s most famous paintings can still be seen hanging a private dining room. Down the years the tavern has served as a trading place for livestock and houses and a meeting place for lawyers and arbitrators - no one is ever turned away. San Rafael, the custodian of Cordoba, presides over the tavern’s courtyard. Commonly known as la señora de las tabernas, the ‘Lady of the Taverns’, its original 1880 counter and shelving remain today. It is a surprise to look underfoot and realize that the floor tiles were once part of the mosque, bought by a previous owner after one of its various demolitions. The walls bear signs alluding to the tavern’s past, such as: “se prohíbe la entrada a betuneros (limpiabotas) y vendedores” (No shoe shiners or hawkers). There is even a framed receipt to the value of 128 pesetas for the sale of two 2 arrobas of wine (an old form of measurement which is equivalent to more than 25, 000 litres). This was then distributed to ‘fortify’ the participants of the procession of Nuestro Padre Jesús Caído in 1942. This is clearly a place as unusual as they come. The house specialties include pisto (similar to ratatouille), salmorejo, (a thick gazpacho or tomato soup) and manitas de cerdo, (pig’s trotters).